The Sunday Wine Dilemma: Vine or Vespers?
There’s a certain poetry in sipping a glass of Chinon as Sunday bells toll in the village below. But among travelers to the Loire Valley, a hushed question persists: Is anything open on Sunday? The answer, fortunately, is yes—if you know where to look and whom to call. While the French week may move to the rhythms of the church bells and lunch tables, the vines don’t entirely sleep on the seventh day.
Centuries ago, monks in the Abbey of Fontevraud were already cultivating these hallowed hills with the seriousness of scripture. Wine wasn’t just a commodity—it was divine stewardship. Today, that rich legacy of devotion continues, albeit with more modern pleasures and rather excellent pétillant.
Visiting Wineries on Sunday: Fact or Folie ?
Sorry for the F words. It is a well-worn cliché that France closes on Sundays, and there’s some truth to it. Yet, like many good myths, exceptions abound.
Several esteemed domaines in the Loire region open their doors to visitors on Sundays, offering relaxed tasting experiences—some even during lunch hours. While larger wineries tend to keep regular hours, smaller producers often welcome visits by appointment. Especially between November and March, when vineyard work eases, winemakers may be even more delighted to share a bottle and a story.
Let’s start with Château de Fontenay near Bléré, not far from Amboise. Apart from boasting a picturesque manor and delightful rooms for an overnight stay, this domaine pours lovely whites and rosés Sunday mornings and afternoons—just call ahead.
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If you’re tracing the road from Chinon to Azay-le-Rideau, the Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly is more than worth a pause. Open continuously, even at that sacred French hour of le déjeuner, it’s famed not only for its precision-made cuvées but also for its elegant tasting room designed to charm both newcomers and aficionados alike.
Nearby in Crouzilles, Domaine Christian Charbonnier may not advertise grandly, but with a courteous call ahead, Sunday tastings are entirely possible. The wines—classically Chinon, with dark cassis and smoky warmth—will reward your initiative.
Travel a little east, and in Amboise, stop at Domaine Plou & Fils. Open both morning and afternoon on Sundays, their location between vine and château makes this a graceful interlude in any itinerary. Their Touraine reds glide across the palate like a canoe on the Loire.
Château de l’Aulée, near Tours, merits special mention. Known for its gorgeous Crémant de Loire and Touraine Azay-le-Rideau wines, the domaine opens all day on Sundays. It’s an ideal detour if you’re heading toward Saumur or Chinon. The estate is rooted in history—founded in 1856, it wears its heritage with just the right amount of old-world flair.
From Tuffeau Walls to Tasting Glory
For enthusiasts of Saumur-Champigny, the Domaine Filliatreau is a shining light. Perched against the tuffeau cliffs near Saumur, this property welcomes visitors without interruption on Sundays. Their tastings unfold in dramatic limestone caves that seem carved for Dionysian pleasures. With panoramic views and whispering cellars, this is a Loire moment par excellence for couples, curious weekenders, or the occasional group of thirsty cyclists.
For more quiet or rustic charm, veterans like Domaine Les Vaucorneilles and Domaine de Rabelais—open Sunday mornings only and generally by appointment—offer simplicity and sincerity. Particularly in the late autumn lull, expect a warm welcome and possibly a barrel to lean on mid-conversation.
Final Tasting Travel Tips
Most sites are easily accessible by car, and many can be reached from Tours or Angers in under an hour. Although public transit options dwindle on Sundays, bike tours flourish in fair weather, especially along the Loire à Vélo path. Families often enjoy afternoon tastings in garden settings, while well-prepared visitors with a few phone calls under their belt will find a trove of open doors and full glasses.
Avoid highly touristy spots like central tasting rooms in overly commercialized château towns. Instead, seek rural cellars and vineyards hugging riverside bends.
If you’re only stopping once, let it be Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly. Their constant Sunday availability, architectural tasting room, and top-tier Chinon wines—structured, complex, and beautifully aged—make it a connoisseur’s delight. Conveniently located and graciously staffed, this is where tradition smiles at contemporary elegance.
With a little planning and a spirit of exploration, your Loire Sunday can uncork more than wine—it can bottle a memory. To keep discovering the region’s quiet treasures, consider subscribing to our curated newsletter below.
Wineries mentioned in this post
Domaine Filliatreau
Domaine Filliatreau deploys its 45 hectares of vines in the heart of the Anjou-Saumur wine region. The winery produces wines from two main appellations :…
Domaine de Rabelais
Domaine de Rabelais deploys its 20 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. The winery produces wines from two main appellations…
Domaine Plou et Fils
Domaine Plou et Fils deploys its 75 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. The winery offers a wide range of…
Château de Montdomaine
Château de Montdomaine deploys its 17 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. The winery offers a wide range of wines…
Château de Fontenay
Château de Fontenay deploys its 15 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. Located on the Touraine vineyard, the winery produces…
Château de la Bonnelière
Château de la Bonnelière deploys its 30 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. The winery produces wines from two main…
Château de l’Aulée
Château de l’Aulée deploys its 32 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. The winery offers a wide range of wines…
Domaine Christian Charbonnier
Domaine Christian Charbonnier deploys its 13 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. Located on the Chinon vineyard, the winery produces…
Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly
Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly deploys its 20 hectares of vines in the heart of the Touraine wine region. Located on the Chinon vineyard, the…
