The story of François Chidaine reads like a vintner’s dream come true. Starting with just a few hectares in Montlouis-sur-Loire in 1989, this third-generation winemaker has risen to become one of the Loire Valley’s most respected vignerons. His commitment to biodynamic viticulture since 1999 reflects a deep-rooted philosophy inherited from parents who taught him to listen to nature’s rhythm.
Across his 37 hectares, Chidaine’s approach to winemaking is nothing short of meticulous. The biodynamic methods he employs aren’t merely trendy buzzwords – they’re part of a holistic vision that includes planting legumes between vine rows to regulate nitrogen levels, crucial for both vine health and wine fermentation. This attention to detail shines through in Le Chenin d’Ailleurs.
In the glass, this wine tells its own story. A pale, luminous robe preludes an aromatic bouquet where fresh citrus dances with white flowers. The palate reveals a masterful balance between vivacity and indulgence – crisp green apple mingles with caramelized pear, while subtle almond notes add complexity. The wine’s tour de force lies in its marked minerality, delivering a pure, invigorating breath that speaks eloquently of its limestone-rich terroir.
What sets this Chenin Blanc apart is its remarkable tension between silky texture and precision. Despite 2016’s climatic challenges, Chidaine’s rigorous work has resulted in a wine of stunning clarity. The slightly silky texture provides a pleasant roundness without overwhelming the palate, while the chiseled acidity – a hallmark of great Vouvray – carries the wine to a notably elegant finish.
While officially labeled as a Vin de France (due to administrative constraints rather than quality concerns), this wine stands proudly among the finest expressions of Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. It’s a wine that brilliantly demonstrates why Chidaine believes this grape variety best expresses terroir in the Loire, despite its wider plantings in South Africa.
Le Chenin d’Ailleurs manages to be both approachable and thought-provoking – a rare combination that makes it equally suited to contemplative sipping or convivial sharing. With time in the cellar, it promises to evolve beautifully, though its current balance makes it irresistible now. A truly remarkable achievement that reminds us why François Chidaine has earned his place among the Loire’s elite winemakers.
